La sortie des fjords signe la fin de la partie 'aventure' de notre voyage. Stykkisholmur et le parc national de Snæfellsjökull - situé sur la péninsule de Snæfellsjökull - se trouvent plus au Sud et les températures y sont un peu plus douces. Les routes ne sont pas enneigées et on y trouve plus de restaurants et de commerces.
Notre itinéraire
Stykkisholmur
Nous avons passé la matinée dans la ville de Stykkisholmur. On s'est baladé dans les rues en prenant des photos des petites maisons en taule colorées. Au début je trouvais ça curieux ces maisons en taule. En Europe on est plus habitué à voir des chalets en pierre et en bois. La taule est tout de suite moins chaleureuse (surtout lorsqu'elle n'est pas peinte). Mais à y réfléchir, ça correspond bien à la mentalité Islandaise: des matériaux bruts et un design efficace, qui répond à un besoin. Le métal est nettement plus durable que le bois quand on considère le climat extrême et les potentiels catastrophes naturelles (liées entre autre aux volcans).
On est descendu jusqu'au port où on a vu notre ferry de la veille, la gueule ouverte, prêt à accueillir en son antre sa ribambelle de camions. Je me suis ensuite mise en quête du pull Islandais parfait - en laine de mouton d'Islande et tricoté par des Islandais - et j'avais lu qu'il valait mieux en acheter dans les petites villes excentrées plutôt qu'à Reykjavík pour les avoir à meilleur prix. Mais comme le seul magasin d'artisanat local était fermé pour la saison, nous sommes allés demander à l'office du ferry. Apparemment je trouverai mon bonheur dans le centre d'accueil des visiteurs du parc national...
Le mont Kirkjufell
En chemin pour le parc, nous nous sommes arrêtés pour admirer le mont Kirkjufell et sa cascade. Ce mont de 463m de haut se situe sur une petite péninsule, elle même attachée à la péninsule de Snæfellsjökull. Il est très abrasé, ce qui lui donne cette forme si particulière: longue mais étroite.
La cascade de Bæjarfoss
Prochain arrêt, la cascade de Bæjarfoss. J'adore les cascades. Les mouvements d'eau m'ont toujours fascinée. C'est donc toujours un plaisir pour moi de découvrir de nouvelles formes et de nouveaux mouvements créés par une chute d'eau. Cette cascade a la particularité d'être très accessible; elle se situe derrière le village de Ólafsvík. En revanche, après avoir vu Dynjandi, elle semble vraiment toute petite!
Le cratère de Saxhóll
Avant d'arriver au cratère nous sommes entrés dans la parc national de Snæfellsjökull. Le parc doit son nom au glacier (ou plutôt volcan - stratovolcan - recouvert de glace) qui s'y trouve. Tout autour de lui on peut admirer les champs de lave qui avec le temps se sont recouverts de mousse. Les Islandais sont très respectueux de leur environnement et il est interdit de marcher hors des sentiers balisés. De cette façon ils protègent la nature en réduisant l'impact de l'homme.
Les 2 aiguilles de Lóndrangar & la cerise sur le pompom
Il ne nous restait plus très longtemps avant la tombée de la nuit, alors nous avons décidé d'aller directement au prochain point de vue sur notre liste: les 2 aiguilles de Lóndrangar. Si vous avez plus de temps, il y a plein de balades à faire dans le parc et on peut facilement y passer plusieurs jours.
Ces 2 aiguilles sont faites de roche volcanique et s'érigent au bord de la falaise. Si vous avez des jumelles vous pourrez peut être y apercevoir des nids et toutes sortes d'oiseaux dont les fameux macareux moine (ou perroquets de mer).
Nous n'avions pas prévu de jumelles, mais surtout notre attention a rapidement été attirée vers une tâche blanche qui s'agitait au milieu de la végétation brunâtre... En s'approchant de plus près on s'est rendu compte qu'il s'agissait d'un renard polaire! Les renards polaires changent leur pelage selon les saisons pour mieux se fondre dans le paysage. En été ils sont bruns et en hiver ils sont blancs. Mais comme il n'y avait pas encore de neige près de la mer, celui-ci contrastait bien avec la nature environnante.
Quelle surprise! On ne s'y attendait pas du tout, d'autant qu'il restait assez prêt du passage emprunté par les humains. Il était sur ses gardes mais semblait vouloir quémander à manger (il ne faut toutefois jamais nourrir des animaux sauvages; ça les pousse à se rapprocher des humains ce qui les met en danger, ça va à l'encontre de leur instinct de chasseur et enfin, la nourriture humaine transformée est mauvaise pour eux).
L'hotel Búðir
Pour notre nuit d'hôtel nous avions décidé de nous faire plaisir avec cet hotel restaurant perdu au bord de l'eau près du village de Búðir. On y a dégusté des cocktails à base de whisky islandais, on y a très bien mangé et on a même fait la connaissance d'un couple d'Américains en vacances également. Nous avons passé la soirée à discuter au coin du feu, dans des fauteuils Chesterfield, avec vue sur la mer.
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